Wanderlust: Edinburgh - Part 1

Edinburgh, but not as you know it. Exploring Scotland’s capital off the beaten path

Travelling is a favourite pastime of many. Leaving the day to day behind and exploring new places has exceptional effects on the body and the mind. It helps us learn about new cultures, explore history we never knew about, and is generally lifting our spirits. Now, I could go on about travel, tourism, and all that is connected to it, as tourism, next to interiors, is my other big passion; so much so that I studied it for both of my degrees. But rather than boring you with something that could easily turn into an academic paper, today, I’d like to introduce you to a city in the United Kingdom which is not only rich in culture and history, but is also known for its stunning architecture, vibrant arts scene, and festivals.

I am of course talking about Edinburgh, Scotland's capital, which due to its close proximity to the North East of England, I visited many times for various day trips, each time spending a few hours in the city centre, mainly the Old Town. I have to say, every time I returned, I never understood the hype around Edinburgh. I mean, the Old Town and history are stunning, but I just couldn’t see the sparkle that everyone I talked to seemed to experience in Edinburgh. So I said to myself, next time I go, I will spend more time there, leave the city centre behind and explore Edinburgh off the beaten path. There must be something I am missing, and I am very intrigued to find what others seem to be experiencing when spending time there. And I can wholeheartedly say, I did just that a few weeks ago, when I packed my bags and made the short journey north.

To be able to provide as much useful detail as possible, I divided this travel guide into two parts:

Part 1 is below, which provides a thorough overview of where I stayed, ate and relaxed, and a map of all locations is provided at the end of this article.

Part 2, which will follow shortly, will cover a detailed rundown of my itinerary, complete with a mapped route. As an additional bonus, I’ll also include some very helpful insider tips. So do make sure to check it out.

Okay, now let’s start the journey…

Where I stayed

While researching for this trip and what to explore in Edinburgh to find that spark everyone was talking about, I came across Stockbridge, a neighbourhood described to have a charming village feel and its own distinct character, and be packed with delights such as inspiring independent shops, laid-back cafes, and restaurants serving the tastiest food. It didn’t take me long to decide that this would be the perfect area to explore to find those hidden gems Edinburgh has to offer, and so it was also a no-brainer to stay in this neighbourhood.

When travelling alone, I have a particular preference of types of accommodation depending on the type of trip I am making. I will be writing more about solo travelling and all my experiences in a future article, but for now, when it comes to choosing accommodation for a city trip, I do prefer to stay in a home with a host. The biggest advantage here is of course benefitting from the host’s local knowledge. On the other hand, cities can be expensive to spend the night. Where you can share the costs with a fellow traveller, when travelling solo, you carry it all on your own. Thus, a room in someone else’s home can be a more affordable option.

My choice in Stockbridge was this charming room in a gorgeous Victorian tenement apartment. I was taken by all the reviews and by Abi’s - the host’s - profile. Having done a few solo trips now, I developed a little set of personal preferences and this sounded like a place I’d really enjoy staying at and in reality it did absolutely not disappoint. Everything you’ll find in the description is exactly what you get and more: a spacious bright double room with super comfy bed, a private bathroom, a welcoming and uber knowledgeable host, and the absolutely welcomed bonus of two gorgeous cats to keep you company. I also didn’t anticipate to be spending a spontaneous evening with Abi and her friends wine tasting, which was just so lovely, allowed me to get a little insight into life in Edinburgh, and is certainly not something that would happen staying in a hotel by yourself.

Where I ate

I realised walking through Stockbridge’s high street on arrival, that the neighbourhood is definitely not lacking in good quality delicatessen, bakeries, pubs, coffee shops, and restaurants. There are sometimes a few coffee shops right next to each other for instance and I would have loved to try every single one of them, but that of course would have never been possible during this short trip. So below are the places I did visit.

Neighbourhood Market - The market is open every year throughout May, June, and July (Wed-Sun) and is a popular hangout spot in Stockbridge, featuring a live music stage, ample picnic tables and deckchairs, as well as plenty of food and drink traders. So many in fact, I was certainly spoiled for choice. It is here where I had one of the best burgers I may have ever had: The smoked pulled pork bun from Fred’s Backyard Barbeque.

Söderberg - A Swedish style coffee shop and bakery, where for breakfast I enjoyed a delicious savoury scone and cappuccino, as well as watching the world go by. Visiting during the week and from my vantage point by the big windows, I felt like I could get a good feel of what life is like in Stockbridge, watching the locals go about their normal working day, and I really enjoyed the creative and relaxed atmosphere.

The Bailie - An atmospheric basement bar with a classic-ish pub menu, a great selection of cask ales and craft beers, and popular with locals for its live music and event nights. My meal, unconventionally a hot dog served with crispy onion, homemade coleslaw and chips, was very delicious, and the atmosphere, which the pub is known for, was as it was advertised, lively conversations all around, even though there is no music, fruit machine or jukebox.

The Scran & Scallie - Tom Kitchin’s gastropub and holder of a Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand, the restaurant established itself as a genuine neighbourhood pub, with a family friendly and relaxed atmosphere, where locals and visitors alike are enjoying exceptional food. The specials seemed very popular with the tables in my vicinity, but given these mostly included fish and seafood the evening I was there, which I sadly cannot eat, I stuck to one of their classics The Scran & Scallie steak pie with tenderstem broccoli side, followed by crème brûlée with fresh Scottish raspberries. I am also partial to a good cocktail, and given the wine tasting planned for that evening, I really enjoyed their non-alcoholic options to toast an absolutely gorgeous day in Edinburgh.

Pantry - A highly recommended breakfast/brunch spot where I was told queues on weekends are not unusual, and having now visited, I absolutely understand why. The coffee is delicious and the food is exceptional. My choice was Eggs Benny with their honey roast ham and it was truly the most delicious eggs benedict I have ever had. The eggs were perfectly cooked, the hollandaise sauce was deliciously light, and the ham had a particularly tasty flavour. Next to the food, I really enjoyed the fun décor and the view out of the huge windows. I didn’t get the chance to sit outside that day, but would certainly try that next time.

Where I took a rest and enjoyed refreshments

Gateway Café at Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh - With its impressive balcony, which seems to be overlooking all the greenery the gardens have to offer, and its hugely comfortable seating, featuring various lounge areas, this café was certainly the perfect spot to rest my tired legs after almost a full day of exploring Stockbridge and surrounding areas along the Water of Leith Way - more detail on that in Part II. Additionally, the food and drinks offered here are simply delicious and I could not resist the urge to visit the garden’s shop on the way out. It’s not your average museum shop, so is certainly worth a look. You can find items such as this gorgeous little tealight holder, which I had to purchase as a little keepsake.

Café Modern One at National Galleries of Scotland - Another fantastic museum café, I’d highly recommend, especially for its beautifully tranquil garden. I have been immersing myself in nature wherever I could during this trip, and sitting off the main patio area, without anyone close by, on a bench surrounded by flowers, was simply gorgeous. Having only taken a brief break here, enjoying a small bottle of Appletiser, I didn’t get the chance to try the food or hot drinks, but given how well visited the café was, I’d take both must be delicious.

Artisan Roast Stockbridge - Being from mainland Europe, I gravitate to outdoor seating whenever there is only the tiniest sign of sunshine. In Germany for instance, almost every restaurant or bar would have outdoor seating, no matter how small the outdoor space, and anywhere you go it would be difficult to get a seat on a summer’s day. So when I walked through Stockbridge, any of the cafés where I could enjoy my coffee outdoors caught my attention of course. For me, Artisan Roast seemed to have the most comfortable setup, with little planters defining the seating area from the rest of the pavement. Although people were walking right past you, it felt secluded, and given the northern pavement side of Raeburn Place being a total suntrap, I highly enjoyed my little sit-down here.

And this is Part One of my Edinburgh adventure. I hope you’ll find this useful and are looking forward to Part Two, which will be published very soon. But in the meantime, if you’ve got a favourite place you’d like to visit in Edinburgh, I’d love to know! Do share it in the comments, or send me a DM if you prefer. Looking forward to your recommendations.

Articles in this series: