Wanderlust: Gorgeous Winter Escape to Coquetdale

A long weekend spent in the mesmerising and much underrated gem that is Northumberland National Park

Going on a little escape in winter, and that to Northumberland, the most northern, and probably perceived as coldest part of England at any time of year, may seem a bit counter intuitive, but I have to say, it was one the best decisions I’ve made in a long time, not least because 2024 has been quite a full-on year. So spending part of the holidays by myself (well, and my gorgeous occasional sidekick Raven), away from any stresses, social pressures, and in nature, as controversial as all this may seem during this “merry and bright” time of year, was something I was really looking forward to. Having struck gold with the very mild and unexpectedly sunny winter weather too, which did turn as soon as I set off to drive home (I couldn’t believe my luck), made this trip even more unforgettable.

A note before we go exploring. I am always trying for my travel guides to be as useful as possible, so below you will find an article jam-packed with a mixture of recommendations of places to visit, some brief history or background worth knowing, links to walks and further information, an itinerary, and some very helpful insider tips. I hope you will find this as useful as I anticipated, and so your feedback is hugely important. I absolutely love to know what you think. I read, respond to, and hugely appreciate every comment, like, and share/restack. Not only does your feedback on any of my articles make my day, it also helps me make future articles even more helpful, and as a bonus you would make an enormous difference to the articles being read by as many people as possible. So I hugely appreciate you taking a brief moment to support my writing. Thank you!

When I started thinking about this trip, I did not really know where I wanted to go in particular, other than that it would be somewhere in Northumberland, as I didn’t want to drive very far due to the unpredictable winter weather. I wanted to stay somewhere that felt remote, but was not too remote to be too far away from amenities. Most importantly though, I wanted somewhere new to explore, and an area where I could go on hikes with stunning views, which at the same time were achievable for a less regular hiker like myself, with an experience level of an advanced novice, let’s say.

Then, finding the perfect accommodation helped with the location choice, and little did I know at the time, that the area my little holiday let was placed around was Coquetdale, a gateway to Northumberland National Park, which in itself is an area full of lesser-known treasures and the perfect destination to explore almost untouched landscapes. I am told, Northumberland National Park is the least populated National Park of the UK. At the same time, it’s bursting with historical sights, has beautiful rolling hills, and you can even catch views of the gorgeous Northumberland coastline as well as Scotland in the same breath (yes, I was also in disbelief before I saw it!). Additionally, it is one of those areas, where you could find yourself completely on your own in places, enjoying all the gems without the need to squeeze past anyone, or fellow hikers spoiling your view (or your pictures. It’s the 21st century after all.). It truly is the place where you can still have the feeling you are the first person to ever discover what you see. Bliss.

What more did I need this winter break, I thought to myself, and hit the book button …

Where I stayed

I was familiar-ish with Rothbury. Well, really, I’ve been to Cragside countless times. The long standing home of the Armstrongs, a name you will come across often in the North East of England. It was William Armstrong, scientist, philanthropist, industrial magnate, and inventor, who made Cragside the first private home in the world to be powered by hydroelectricity. It is one of those gorgeously preserved and looked after National Trust estates. A place where I could spend hours exploring, and going back to again and again, to enjoy the various events at varying times of years. There is magnificent rhododendron season, magical lantern winter walks, or the UK’s tallest living Christmas tree, to name a few.

But Rothbury and its surrounding area, I have always only enjoyed from a distance, mainly while standing in Cragside’s formal gardens, I realised. So coming across Rosie’s magical glampsite just outside Rothbury, was my opportunity to explore the area properly.

The Dragonfly pod, I’ve chosen to stay at with Raven, is part of this glampsite of currently 2, but with space for a total of 4 holiday lets, and was more than we could have ever imagined we needed. It was dog friendly for a start. Essential of course. It had free parking right next door. Perfect. It was remote, with hardly any traffic noise, beautiful Hereford cows (I believe) as neighbours, and stunning views over the Simonside hills as a bonus. I mean. At the same time, it was walkable to quaint Rothbury town centre in as little as 15 minutes. Well, this already ticked quite a few of my boxes, so it was an absolute bonus that the pod was completely new, uber comfortable, not least because of the super cosy bed, and unbelievably well equipped. Beside the standard amenities, there was also an airfryer (every holiday let should have one, I believe now), binoculars, strong torches (highly appreciated in this location, not least when letting Raven out to do her business in the wee hours), TV with Freeview, firepit wood with complimentary marshmallows, helpful dog accessories should you have forgotten any of yours. I could go on.

Rosie and her family, who are also the most welcoming and helpful hosts, really made sure to create a magical place where we very much felt at home and really had all we needed and more.

Where I explored

Having such a lovely base to explore from, I was really excited to see what the surounding area, which I learned was referred to as Coquetdale, had to offer.

Coquetdale is named after the river Coquet, which rises in the Cheviot Hills, meanders through Northumberland and its National Park, and discharges into the North Sea at Amble. It’s the area mainly to the west of Rothbury, and is the midpoint of Northumberland National Park.

Here you will come across rolling moorland, ancient hay meadows, and rocky outcrops such as Simonside, a range of sandstone hills dominating the Coquet Valley. Once you made it to the summit (430m), which was used during Tudor times to warn of a Scots invasion, you have an uninterrupted and breathtaking panoramic view to the west of the entire Northumberland hills range, including the Cheviots, which in its entirety runs along the border to Scotland. Furthermore, to the east, you will be able to see as far as the North East coastline. Other than that, on the longer 4 mile (7km) circular walk, you will walk through forest, where terrain can be quite muddy in places, will pass a couple of crags, Old Stell and Dove Crag, as well as Little Church Rock, which is worth exploring, and a large boulder Criss Cross Rock, displaying curved grooves, which is believed to be prehistoric rock art or medieval in origin.

The two waymarked walks, of which the shorter loop is about a mile, are looked after by Forestry England and are very easy to follow. The longer loop in particular has a very helpful flagged path across the heather moorland between the crags, which is also much needed for preservation. The car park is free of charge surprisingly, but be aware there are no toilets or bins anywhere in the vicinity.

Not having set foot into Northumberland National Park itself previously, Drake Stone by Harbottle seemed to be the perfect place for my first visit, and I was not disappointed. Even driving towards Harbottle, just having entered the National Park, is breathtaking for the views, and climbing the 270 meters to Drake Stone, a 30-foot-tall sandstone boulder, provides an even more impressive panoramic view of the valley. No wonder people say this place is magical and are even choosing to get engaged here.

The Drake Stone boulder, placed in its unique spot by a glacier during the last Ice Age, is certainly of an impressive size. The sort of size, the more adventurous of us still love to climb to this day. It is said however, that people who spent the night there did not find their way back down and vanished as if by magic - or more realistically: may have found their sad fate at the bottom of the hill, as the cliff top like position and the strong winds surrounding the stone are not to be underestimated.

Drake Stone is part of a very enjoyable circular 7 mile walk leading all the way through West Wood forest, along the north east of river Coquet, and through Harbottle, with a little stop at impressive Harbottle Castle, a ruin of a 12th-century motte-and-bailey castle. This area is another one looked after by Forestry England, providing free parking, but no toilets or bins again. However, that’s less of an issue here, given the proximity to Harbottle and its lovely amenities, such as the super cosy Star Inn, a pub doubling as the village store. More on that below.

During my stay, I planned to take a day off hiking every other day, so exploring Rothbury itself seemed like the perfect way to relax in between longer days out. There is a very convenient free car park south of the river (Cowhaugh), but the town centre only being an easy short walk from my accommodation, I decided to leave the car parked up and enjoy a little explore by foot, which of course also came with the aim to have a drink or two at the local pub at some point during the day.

Rothbury, known as the capital of Coquetdale, has quite a quaint town centre with ample independent shops and restaurants, welcoming pubs, and places of interest worth visiting. There’s Coquetdale Art Gallery for instance, a charitable organisation supporting exclusively local artists. Pots & Pans at the other end of the high street and an absolute treasure trove of home decor. Bridgedale Antiques, a real rabbit warren where you may keep asking yourself if you entered someone's home rather than a shop. All these places were sadly closed, but I am told are definitely worth a visit. I didn’t feel I missed out this time around though, as with Raven’s company on this trip, I would not have been able to explore them, but, to my surprise, the rest of the town centre was unbelievably dog friendly. Given the vast number of amenities, I was not able to visit all the places on offer, but the below are the ones I did and would highly recommend:

The Red Door - A lovely little boutique run by the kindest lady. You can find lovely clothing, accessories as well as some interior decor here.

RSPCA Charity Shop - The only charity shop in town, and one with some great finds, including some lovely wallpaper, very randomly, which I bagged for £1(!) for my upcoming under-stair cupboard project.

Rothbury Family Butchers - Technically not somewhere I could enter with Raven, but I couldn’t pass by the array of delicious looking pastries (and cakes actually), and the owners were super accommodating serving me by the door. That was my snack for walking along the river later sorted.

Elements Art & Craft Gallery - Somewhere you could spend quite a while chatting to the owners and looking around. Despite the compact size, this cute shop is filled with the most gorgeous arts and crafts by various local artists, perfect if you’re in the market for a souvenir or present.

Having filled my metaphorical shopping cup (and real life bags), it was time to go enjoy my sausage roll by the river. Rothbury’s riverside walk is one of the most pleasant walks I have done along a river in a long time. It is very accessible for a variety of users and has a gorgeous backdrop of the Simonside range. Given it is so close to the main road in places, it still felt quite tranquil and that you’re immersed in nature. The gorgeous sunshine during my walk did of course add to the experience.

With one more day left to explore gorgeous Northumberland, I decided to venture a bit further afield and do some research for a future trip. I heard that Wooler is supposed to be the gateway to the Cheviots, and by extension I’d say, the northern part of Northumberland. It is described as a walkers’ paradise and a hidden gem. I had to see what that was all about and headed to Wooler Common first.

The main, and again free, car park is right next to a couple of picturesque ponds, fed by Humbleton Burn, and surrounded by a mixture of mature woodland and open common. The half a mile and very accessible walk around the ponds allows for a lovely non-strenuous walk enjoying the peaceful setting, spotting red squirrels if you’re lucky, or learning about the trees planted in the area, as plaques explaining their origin and significance are found throughout the walk. Wanting to explore a bit further that day, but not planning on venturing too far afield, I also took the opportunity to walk a miniscule part of the St Cuthbert’s Way, heading south from the car park, up towards but not as far as the top of Earle Whin, and through Thrunton Wood. A nice and easy 1.5 mile walk with lovely views over Wooler. This was just enough walking before it was time to briefly explore Wooler village, which was lovely but unfortunately completely deserted with all shops closed during Twixmas, and head home.

Whenever I return however, I would definitely love to venture up Humbleton Hill (250m) to explore the hillfort, which is believed to have started life in the Bronze Age. Yeavering Bell, another hill crowned by what is known as the largest hillfort in Northumberland, covering 15 acres, would also be on my To-Explore list. After all, despite the steep hike to ~350m, I would absolutely love to have a chance to spot some of the wild Cheviot goats, a breed predating modern goats that helped sustain people of the British Isles from the earliest Neolithic farmers' times. A quick google tells me that is possibly any time between 4300 BC to 2000 BC. Let’s let that sink in.

Where I rested and refreshed

No stay in the English countryside would be complete without a visit to a really good pub, or multiple in my case. Below are the ones I would highly recommend in the area for their location, especially connected to the above places I explored, but also simply for their good food and cosy as well as welcoming atmosphere, where a lovely chat with staff or fellow guests is no rarity:

The Turks Head, Rothbury - A coaching inn built in the 16th century, which is still to this day welcoming overnight guests and serving the local community and its visitors the most delicious drinks and meals. There’s a roaring fire by the bar and enough space for larger dogs to relax too, something very welcomed of course when travelling with Raven.

The Anglers Arms, Weldon Bridge - Another coaching in, this time dating back to the 18th century, the Anglers Arms is located right next to the river Coquet and feels a world away from everything despite its proximity to the A697. I’d highly recommend stopping here for a special and equally delicious meal. It is of course very dog friendly too, where our furry friends can even join us in the restaurant.

The Star Inn, Harbottle - Completing the list of coaching inns, is this 19th century gem built using sandstone from the nearby ruins of Harbottle castle. Next to the overnight accommodation and delicious meals on offer, including traditional pub food as well as hand-stretched wood-fired pizza, the Star Inn also functions as the village shop, newsagents, and Northumberland National Park information point. Sitting next to its traditional and very cosy fireplace after our walk, myself and Raven did truly not ever want to leave.

Travel itinerary

When it comes to travel articles, I, for one, do find an example itinerary quite helpful to help me put any suggested places into perspective. Additionally, it is great to not have to start your own planning from a blank sheet of paper. So, if this is also the way you operate with your holiday planning, this is for you. Please note however, the below itinerary is based on a winter escape, meaning I made sure to make my way back from any activities at dusk, i.e. 4pm-ish, at the latest. If I’d do this trip during the warmer months and longer daylight, it would of course look a bit differently, by probably adding a few more places of interest to visit on the way, either before or after a hike, or enjoying a longer pause and a picnic lunch on a hike, or spending some time in one of the pub's beer gardens in the evening.

Day One: Arrive at Simonside mid-morning - Hike 4 mile circular route with stop for packed lunch with a view by one of the crags (There are a few places to shelter from the wind, if needed) - Check in at holiday accommodation before dark - Enjoy a delicious home cooked meal and a quiet evening looking ahead to the next days’ adventures or simply reading a book

Day Two: After a leisurely breakfast at home, set off for a walk to Rothbury mid-morning - Explore the village centre, shops, and places of interest - Take 1.5 mile lunchtime riverside stroll while enjoying a previously purchased sausage roll - Settle in at The Turks Head and enjoy a drink or two, a book, a chat with the locals, and a light late lunch - Return to the holiday let to get ready to head to The Anglers Arms for a special dinner

Day Three: Arrive at Harbottle mid-morning - Hike 7 mile circular route with a stop at Harbottle Castle to admire the view - Enjoy a drink and a late lunch at The Star Inn - Set of just before dusk to visit Lady’s Well on the way back - Enjoy a delicious dinner and a quiet evening at the holiday let

Day Four: Check out of the holiday accommodation by mid-morning - Drive to Edlingham Castle to explore the castle site and church - Arrive at Wooler Common midday - Enjoy a quiet walk around the ponds with a packed lunch - Extend the walk by 1.5 miles along St Cuthbert’s Way - Spend early afternoon exploring Wooler - Head home before dusk, content with your amazing adventures

Insider Tips

Lastly, to wrap things up, as always I love to share a few helpful insider tips I discovered when visiting:

Winter weather: In the north east of England the weather can be unpredictable throughout the year, and that more so in winter of course. This mainly applies when planning further ahead, rather than the weather suddenly changing on short notice. When coming to Northumberland for a winter hiking escape, it is advisable to research the route conditions. For instance, we’re currently experiencing a cold snap, and though there’s now glorious sunshine after the worst of the weather has passed, I would still not hike at Simonside for instance. Although I've not attempted it, I can imagine the climb up to the summit as well as the walk along the flagged path between the crags being quite icy and dangerous. Overall though, if you’re not afraid of colder weather, daylight dwindling as early as 4pm, or having to reroute due to an occasional flood on the road, Northumberland will reward you with glorious sunsets earlier in the day, and walks inland or by the coast without another soul around. Additionally, the beaches especially can be enjoyed with your dog, as in most locations restrictions are removed during the winter months.

Otterburn Ranges: Since the early 20th century 23% of Northumberland National Park is owned by the Ministry of Defence, and though it is used for military training regularly, it is the aim of the National Park and the MoD to encourage as much access as possible. This however means that you need to be aware of the access information, safe routes and signs to look out for. The Drake Stone circular walk mentioned above for instance is leading along the border of what is considered the controlled access danger area. A starting point for your own research can be found here.

Hidden gems: No insider tips would be complete without highlighting some truly hidden gems, and in Coquetdale there are many, but let me start with highlighting the below two:

• Lady’s Well: While in Harbottle, given it was still light emerging from the pub, I wanted to make sure to stop at a little hidden treasure on the way home, Lady’s Well by Holystone. The site, now lovingly looked after by the National Trust, is only a ¼ mile, though muddy, walk from the Forestry England car park a few moments drive past the village, and really worth the little detour. It is a very tranquil and equally eerie little place surrounded by gorgeous views, the sound of sheep chatting or pheasants roosting in the distance, should you be there towards dusk, like I was. The well is considered to be of Roman origin, and said to have been a baptismal well during early Christian time, before becoming a healing, then wishing well, and now functioning as the main water supply for the village.

• Edlingham Castle: During my trip, I discovered a little halfway stop on the way to Wooler worth exploring. Edlingham Castle, a 14th century ruin built at a time when Northumberland was relatively peaceful, is now free to enter, and is one of those really unassuming historic sites, but one which you’ll long remember, not least because of the beautifully peaceful setting or its remarkable leaning tower. No wonder it was once voted as one of the top three English Heritage castles to visit in Northumberland. The others being the more known Warkworth and Dunstanburgh Castles.

I’d love to finish with thanking you for reading all about my Coquetdale adventure to the end. I realise it has become a more extensive piece than I anticipated, but equally I hope you will find the detail useful, should you ever end up exploring this area for yourself. If you do, I’d love to know where you went and what your experience has been. In the meantime, as briefly mentioned at the beginning of this article, every comment, like, and share/restack not only make my day but also make an enormous difference to articles being seen by as many people as possible. So I highly appreciate you being here and taking a brief moment to support my writing.

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